love electronics as much as I love my camera.Ive not made anything for ages so its about time I got my soldering iron out :) so this last few weeks Ive been working on this thing , Im not following any plans and just making it up as I go along so I do hope it will work when its done lol.

the camera mount is from an old tripod I had laying around. I made a simple slip ring using copper wire to feed the tilt motor and infrared led to trigger my camera you can see this running round the base. the LCD will display info and you will be able to set the amount of shots, how long between each shot and a few other things. I'm thinking of fitting a socket so I can plug a PIR into the unit and get that to trigger the camera just incase I want to go out and take a some wildlife shots.

I was going to use stepper motors but as I had two small Dc motors I'm using these with a opto counter from an old microsoft mouse so the micro controler will know where it is.

I've fixed a screw mount so the unit can be fitted to my tripod.

here you can see one of the opto counters there is also one more that you cant see in the picture to tell the micro when its done one revolution.

and heres a picture showing the picmicro,sitting on top of that is one of the H bridge circuits but I will changing this with a IC to save space.
I have the basic code up and running but still have a lot to do. the unit triggers my nikon camera with a infrared LED but it will also have a socket to fit other camers.
I hope to have it ready in a few weeks, right now Im waiting for some H bridge Ic's to come in the post. I will post up a video when its up and running. cant wait to take it over out and get some sunrise/sunset footage using it :).
As I've never used a time lapse rig before Im not sure about what I should get my code to do, I mean what features should this unit have,below is the sort of thing I'm thinking of going with. there will be 5 steps and in each step you will be able to program the pause time and amount of shots taken.
What do you guys think ?? am I on the right track or would some other funtion be handy , I would love some feed back on this from someone that has used a time lapse rig as I'm about to get into the programing in the next day or two and it would.
step 1. Lead-In take static frames at the front of the shot by set amount time
step 2 Ramp-Up, move the camera from 0 point up to full speed and at the same time take shots by the set amount .
step 3 constant speed portion taking shots by the set amount
step 4 Ramp-Down move the camera from full speed down to 0 and at the same time take shots by the set amount
step 5 lead-out take static frames at the end of the shot.
thanks for reading and I hope someone can give me some feedback on this subject

Very nice work! I like your
Very nice work! I like your use of found hardware mixed in with machining =)
To be honest, the first thing you want to implement will likely be an option between continuous and SMS motion. Then, linear ramping of output speeds.
A big feature a lot of people like is to set the movie parameters, and then have the software work everything out, e.g.:
Movie: 24FPS frame rate, 30s long video, 2 hours "elapsed time", move 10 degrees up =
10 second interval
720 total shots
0.0014 degrees/second movement
!chris
Thank you SO much for your
Thank you SO much for your reply Chris , Im a total noob when it comes to this stuff and what you said is a great idea this may sound silly now but I dont think I would have come up with that.what is SMS ? I will have go at getting the program to do just that.
thanks again thats a great help.
No problem! I'm here to help
No problem! I'm here to help *grin* SMS is "Shoot-move-Shoot" (or move-shoot-move, or interleaved... =) it refers to moving between shots, and not while the camera is exposing. Here's a brief article on some common motion types: http://openmoco.org/node/93 this is a good starting point for the three basic motion modes.
In all of my motion control stuff, I use the camera as the metronome - it is the core of my timing. That is to say, nothing happens (generally) if the camera isn't firing, in SMS mode, a completion of a shot triggers a move. In continuous mode, I generate all "end points" based ultimately on frames exposed, if I want a fixed length of time, I usually deduce it to exposures except in certain cases. (Like program run time keyframes in the TimeLapse Engine.) Basically, if you're not shooting - then you're not making a timelapse film, and you've got a good timing reference with your intervalometer.
Check out the documentation link at the top left to get an idea of some features you might want. The MX2 documentation describes a fairly simple system for DC motors, while the TimeLapse Engine docs describe a very complex, script-oriented system for steppers.
!chris
Thanks again shutterdrone
Thanks again shutterdrone that link is a great help, Im going with the SMS system. could I ask one more thing. Ive got the code to work out the interval for each shot for a given frame rate and event time/ final film lenght, but as Im not very good a math I dont know how to workout the amount of movement for each interval,so I would like to be able to give the program a start point and an end point and then have it work out how much to turn btween each shot, what would the formula be to do this ? I dont even know what to look for on google but I'm sure its just basic stuff , any help would be great. thanks again :)
Oh, it was in the article
Oh, it was in the article =)
Quote:The number of steps between shots (s) is calculated as the spatial distance per step (d), the total distance to be moved (D), the seconds of video time to make the move over (T), and the frame-rate per second (f) of the output video. Or: s = (D / d)/(T * f).
note: there appeared to be a typo in my original formula in the article, where it divided time by frames
In this case, "spatial distance" is degrees, so if your encoder does 100 pulses per rotation of shaft, and 3 shaft rotations equal 360' rotation, then d = 360 / ( 100 * 3 ), or 1.2 degrees per "step" (step in this case being the smallest observable movement), so you just plug in the rest of the formula:
D = 180' (user input)
T = 30" (seconds, user input)
f = 24fps
steps between shots = ( 180 / 1.2 ) / ( 30 * 24 ) or, s = 0.2 "steps" between shots. (Obviously, you have to normalize to your minimum measurable distance.)
(The simple way of looking at this is, how many pulses it takes to travel that distances, divided by the number of frames you're going to take while covering that distance.)
The reason you use output video time and framerate is because your camera firing, or interval, is your metronome for the output video. Each shot is one frame, so to calculate the right rate of motion, it's based on how many frames you're shooting and how fast those frames playback in the final video. In this case, since you're doing SMS, it's completely irrelevant how much wall time is passing in real life, because time will only be observed when a frame is exposed.
You can include wall time by using it calculate the seconds between exposures required to reach the final output video, i.e.:
i = W / (T * f)
So, if I wanted 1 hour of wall (or "real") time to be elapsed into a 30s video:
i = 3600 / ( 30 * 24 ) or i = 5 seconds
Thus, to input my parameters as "30 seconds of video at 24fps, covering 1 hour of real time and moving 180 degrees," the end result is a 5-second interval and 0.2 steps between each shot.
!c
Thanks again for the info
Thanks again for the info shutterdrone, Im still working on this project and I hope to have an update to show you guys very soon :)
well Ive got my unit working
well Ive got my unit working but theres errors when it moves, its just to bad I dont have a lathe to make the parts myself. still Im going to see if I can get it working better so will keep at it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoV8-jGB118
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzxQHWHvVRU